Arniston is a magical place. For me, it’s synonymous with relaxation and that ‘holiday feeling’. For Kygo, our rottweiler, it means freedom and magnificent adventures every day.
Waleed, my husband, has been going to Arniston since he was 6 years old. So when I went there for the first time over 10 years ago, I also fell in love with the place. It’s hard not to.
It is a small fishing village, about 190km outside of Cape Town, famous for its lime-washed houses with thatched roofs. It remains unspoiled and has been declared a national monument.
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| Arniston Harbour with the Hotel and the fishing village in the distance |
The town is named after a ship, The Arniston, an East Indiaman that made eight voyages for the British East India Company. She was wrecked on 30 May 1815 during a storm at Waenhuiskrans (later renamed Arniston), near Cape Agulhas (the southernmost tip of Africa). Only six people on board The Arniston survived and 372 lives were lost.
The shipwreck museum in Bredasdorp is a worthwhile trip to learn more about all the ships this rugged coastline and the Cape of Storms has claimed and to see some artefacts of the remains of the sunken ships.
What to do in Arniston
What I love about Arniston is that it is a quaint place that hasn’t been too commercialised. The Arniston Hotel is situated on the beachfront at the Harbour and has a small shop where you can find essentials. Otherwise, you’ll need to trek to Bredasdorp for supplies.
The beaches provide an unspoilt view of white sand with a coastline that stretches on and on. The translucent, turquoise water is usually much warmer than elsewhere in the Cape because of the warm Mozambican current.
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| Otter Beach with the Struispunt beacon in the distance |
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Staring into the deep blue sea |
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| Sunrise playtime sessions |
Go whale and dolphin watching
You can often see whales who come to our shores between April and January, with the peak viewing season in September and October. They come here to mate, give birth and hang around until their calves are strong enough to travel further. In November, we were fortunate to see pods of dolphins frolicking in the water.
Enjoy the warm water and white sandy beaches
The water here is great for swimming and surfing and remains a popular destination for anglers and divers. We love Roman Beach, which is the more popular beach and gets quite busy over the holidays.
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| A few anglers on Roman Beach |
For dogs like Kygo, it is pure heaven. We met the famous @maxwell_swartz here, who is lucky enough to call this place home. Our ritual is to wake up early, have a cup of coffee before we head out for a walk to the beach to enjoy the most beautiful sunrise and play with Kygo. When we head back ‘home’, it’s time for breakfast, followed by a mid-morning nap and then a swim or a trip to Bredasdrop or an evening walk.
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| Catching a beautiful sunrise |
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| On your marks, get set, ready, go... |
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| Not a cheetah, just a rottweiler getting a head start |
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| Bliss... when you have the beach all to yourself! |
Catch a magnificent sunrise
The next morning we’ll head up the Khoisan Middens (the sand dunes) in the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve before dawn for an elevated view of the coastline. I’ve never seen more magnificent sunrises than in Arniston. The dunes provide quite a workout, whether you have two or four legs. It’s a great place to play catch with Kygo.
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| Sunrise from the sand dunes |
Take a long walk on the beach
Our favourite thing to do is take long walks on the beach, often going for miles without seeing others, only nature at its best.
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| An early morning meander from Roman Beach to Struispunt Beacon |
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| Arniston is a dog-friendly place where your pooch can truly enjoy freedom |
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| Always collecting treasures |
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| A beach run |
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| Quick cool down |
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| The rocky coastline |
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| An oystercatcher on Otter Beach |
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| A very happy Kygo |
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| Kygo and I at Otter Beach |
Explore the Waenhuiskrans cave
From Roman Beach you can take a little bit of a hike to the Waenhuiskrans cave. Signage clearly marks the path. The tidal cave’s name translates to ‘The Wagon house cliff’ and it is believed to be big enough for a wagon with a full-span of oxen to turn around inside it.
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| The view from inside Waenhuiskrans cave |
It’s best to go at low tide as you’ll have to navigate over some rocks and shallow water. The entrance to the cave is a small hole in a rock, which is towards the back of the cave.
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| Kygo staring in the direction of the entrance to the cave |
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| What the inside of the Waenhuiskrans Cave looks like |
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The spectacular view from the mouth of the cave makes the journey worth it as you face the ocean. Make sure you exit the cave before high tide. It’s dark inside and is home to some bats flying about.
Kassiesbaai
Kassiesbaai, to the left of the Harbour if you are facing the ocean, also has an amazing stretch of beach. You can explore the fisherman’s village and enjoy some local dishes or buy hand-crafted souvenirs at the Willeens restaurant.
How to get there
Arniston is about a 2½ hour drive from Cape Town up the N2. It is a very scenic drive over Sir Lowry’s Pass, The Steenbras River, along the fruit orchards of Grabouw and Elgin, over Houw Hoek Pass, through Caledon, Napier and another 20km from Bredasdorp.
The undulating, golden wheat or yellow canola fields stretch as far as the eye can see. We often spot sheep and cattle grazing, ostriches, as well as Blue Cranes majestically striding across the fields.
How to book accommodation
There are two letting agents that operate in Arniston, as well as some online booking sites. I usually request that my pet-friendly accommodation has an enclosed yard or garden.
Great off-season specials:
ETNA’S SOUTHERN TIP
From 1 May – 30 November, Etna’s have a mid-week special. If you book for two nights, you get two nights’ free accommodation. Normal low season rates apply for weekends.
Contact Maatje Terblanche:
Telephone number: +2728 445 9657 or +2782 818 4529
Email: arniset@mweb.co.za
Website: www.arniston-etnas.co.za
ARNISTON HOLIDAY LETTING
Arniston Holiday Letting usually have winter specials and offer a discount if you book for three nights or more.
Contact Mari King
Telephone number: +2728 445 9559 or +2783 305 5140
Email: mari@ffg.net
Website: www.arniston-letting.co.za
Thank you for your lovely and informative article, much appreciated! Take care
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