A Thai-rrefic experience

One of the very first conversations I had with my now husband was after my return from a US trip that  included a stint in New York - where I experienced temperatures to the south of zero and every type of precipitation.  This was followed by a skiing holiday at Lake Tahoe in Nevada.  He on the other hand spent two weeks in Thailand and after hearing his stories, an island holiday instantly appealed to me. 

So a year later when we were discussing honeymoon destinations, the decision was easy. We would do a few days in the south on the proverbial tropical island, followed by a trip north to the jungle and then stop in Bangkok.  We departed on 11 May 2009 and returned three weeks later.  This was by far my most memorable travelling experience.

Koh Samui

 

From Cape Town, it’s about an 18-hour flight to Thailand’s capital, Bangkok. Koh Samui is another 50 minute flight from Bangkok. We arrived in the evening and I was struck by the unconventional airport - a thatched-roof structure without walls!  The light was dim on our drive to the hotel and I was fascinated by area’s rural feel.  Our hotel, Centara Villas, was situated on a slope and as we descended to breakfast, I was mesmerised by the beauty of the place. Bougainvillea in yellow, pink and purple, frangipanis, orchids and palm trees set the scene.  The hotel’s restaurant was on the beach and it was the most breathtaking view I’d ever seen.  Imagine a long stretch of white sandy beach and translucent water, all framed by a lush forest in the background.

After breakfast we explored the island and walked for ten kilometres.  The primary means of transport is by scooter so it’s not unusual to see a mom taking her eldest to school accompanied by two younger children, all on a scooter. 

While walking we saw a truck filled with coconuts and a monkey hanging from the side.  We learnt that the locals use monkeys to gather coconuts high up in the trees and reward them with bananas.  This ingenious idea highlighted the symbiotic relationship between man and animal. The locals are resourceful and a visit to a butterfly farm revealed the different uses for coconuts.  The husk of the coconut is burnt to repel insects, while pregnant women drink the coconut water daily for natural electrolytes and to ensure good complexions for their babies. The fruit is processed to produce the milk and cream, which are primarily used for cooking, and soaps, oils and even sugar are also made. 
We ended up on a beach and a woman offered me a pedicure. She meticulously painted my nails with dark blue varnish and finished it off with white flowers containing black centres.  This pedicure was half the price it would’ve been back home.  At the time, the local currency (the Baht) was about 4 to R1.  It is now around 5 to R1.10.  This makes Thailand an affordable destination for South Africans and even more so for tourists from elsewhere.

I found the locals to be friendly, persuasive and appreciative when you engaged with them.  I sometimes found the act of negotiating prices exhausting.  It is advisable to offer them half of what they request and work on a reasonable price from there.

There are a number of tour operators offering competitive prices. One such trip was a snorkelling and island-hopping adventure. We travelled by speed boat for about 45 minutes and stopped at a popular snorkelling spot.  The water was so clear you could see the black and grey tiger-striped fish swimming by.  It’s amazing to be inches away from these tropical fish.  We went to another island for lunch where we indulged in the local cuisine. 

Chiang Mai

 

Chiang Mai in the north of Thailand is a 50-minute flight from Bangkok and was the more cultural
part of our trip. We went on an all-day temple tour and learnt facts about the locals while viewing immaculate structures and figurines. About 90% of the Thai population practice Buddhism.  They believe in reincarnation and as such generously donate to the temples and sustain the monks by providing them with food or purchasing food hampers for the inhabitants of the monasteries.  Because the Buddhist philosophy is so widespread, the locals are friendly, patient, endearing people with a spirit of abundance that is ubiquitous.

An elephant ride through the jungle was one of my most memorable experiences.  These big creatures are so agile and dexterously negotiated their way over the small rocks in the stream we were travelling along.  We learnt that elephants have a life expectancy similar to humans. They are reared by a mahout (elephant trainer) and spend their life with this trainer. The elephants were previously used by the locals to perform daily tasks but no longer do so. They still undergo training and we witnessed how they pull, lift and stack large tree trunks.  We even witnessed a baby elephant paint two murals with his trunk and these were later sold for income for a conservation camp. There are many elephant conservation camps as these creatures need extensive care in their old age as they eat between 200-300 kilograms of food a day.  On our trek through the jungle, we met some of the local tribe people who live in the upper reaches of the forest.

Another meaningful experience was a visit to the Chiang Mai Zoo.  We saw giraffes, flamingos, a white Siberian tiger, leopards, monkeys, gibbons, birds and the highlight was Mr. Chuang Chuang, the panda on loan to Thailand from China in an effort to foster good relations.  It was amazing to see this life-size, teddy bear-like creature chew on sugar cane while reclining on his lounger then getting on all fours to have a sip of water. His pregnant ‘girlfriend’ was under medical observation when we were there and she gave birth the day we left.

One of the extreme adventures we participated in was ‘Flight of the Gibbon’, where you zip-line through the Chiang Mai forest at about 15-metres above the ground.  This aerial view allows you to see the forest from a different angle.

Bangkok

 

The best way for me to describe Bangkok is Asia’s New York as it’s constantly bustling.  It is definitely one of the world’s top shopping destinations.  The night and weekend markets left me exhausted. You can get everything from clothes and souvenirs to designer bags and garments. We stayed at the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, the tallest building in the city.  It has 88-floors with a revolving deck that offers a 360 degree view of the city.  

One of the musts is a ride in a tuk-tuk, a three wheeled contraption that sounds like a scooter and allows for whizzing through traffic. Be warned that these drivers are persuasive and will often take you to their friend’s place for free if you purchase something from them. Another main attraction in Bangkok is the floating market.  You sit in a boat and manoeuvre your way through the canal and pass other boats with people offering you the opportunity to buy trinkets, fruit, food, souvenirs and toys.

Another amazing experience was a visit to the tiger temple.  We went at about three in the afternoon and the heat was unbearable but the tigers were relaxing and soaking up the sun.  The sheer size of these creatures will make anyone shake in the boots.  But as long as you follow the guide’s instructions you’ll be fine. 

We spent a day on Pattaya Beach from where we took a speedboat and went island-hopping.  The highlight of the day was our walk on the ocean floor with a fishbowl-like device on our heads.  We had a chance to get a closer look at the coral, feed the fish and observe them at close range.
The artistic genius of the locals was constantly reinforced.  On a visit to a teak factory we discovered that it is responsibly farmed here. In the factories, the locals carve detailed pictures (sometimes ten centimetres in depth) into the wood.  They have carvings of Buddhas and various furniture pieces and courier them to any part of the world.

A visit to the King’s palace to see the emerald Buddha is a must. The temples are decorated in gold, mosaic, mirror and tiles cut into small shapes that are beyond beautiful.  They have intricately painted murals adorning the walls of the temples and these are maintained every few years. 

In my experience, Thailand appeals to everyone.  The weather is ‘pleasant’ all year round. You can visit Koh Samui on the Gulf Coast in the south of Thailand in May or Phuket on the Andaman coast in December. The weather is warm to humid to sometimes wet or a combination of all three.  The food is plentiful and delicious, with flavours to tempt every palette. The beauty of the country is indescribable.  As a tourist destination, Thailand should be on everyone’s bucket list.

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